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Last May, in a meeting with financial analysts, Richemont Group Chairman Johann Rupert railed against rampant overproduction in the Swiss watch industry. “Our retail partners, the big and the small, are still being force fed like geese producing foie gras with people (i.e. brands) who still sell in more than they sell out. It’s bad for the whole industry,” Rupert said.Tuesday, September 10, 2019, 6:00-9:00 PM at The General Society Library, 20 West 44th Street, New York, NY 10036 Doors open at 6:00 PM; lecture begins promptly at 7:00 PM. Free tickets are required to attend.All HSNY meetings are fausses Richard Mille rm 72 free and open to the public, and all lectures are video recorded.HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.The biggest change is the new Dual Impulse escapement, which offers greater efficiency over a conventional lever and allows an increase in power reserve. The 9SA5 has an 80-hour reserve, vs. 55 for the 9S85. 9SA5 is also thinner, at 31.0mm x 5.18mm versus 28.4mm x 5.99mm for the 9S85.Quick Take: François Junod is the Swiss watch industry’s go-to automaton specialist. He’s had a lengthy career across the industry, and the GPHG jury chose to honor him today. It’s rare for behind-the-scenes makers such as Junod to be honored in this way, which should highlight just how highly he is thought of across the watch world.I’d have to guess that a watch of such importance will attract the interest of Rolex as a bidder. It’s no secret the brand has scooped up a few of its historically important watches at auction over the last few years. Last year, it bought Commander Warren’s GMT-Master ref. 6542 at Sotheby’s, one of the more expensive results we’ve seen for a vintage GMT-Master (Marlon Brando’s bezel-less GMT still sets the pace, having now sold twice).It’s all for a good cause and, honestly, I found the lead photo quite entertaining. There aren’t many opportunities to put a George Clooney selfie wristshot on Hodinkee and today, I am capturing my chance. The watch is a reference 231.50.42.21.06.002 Aqua Terra 150M 41.5mm in Red Gold on a Red Gold Omega bracelet – the original retail price would have been $39,000.
If the all-black look isn’t your thing, there’s another new Swiss Alp Watch to check out. This one is called the Brrrr (again, not loving these names) and has a Funky Blue fumé dial set in a white gold case. If you’ve never seen a Moser fumé dial in person, figure out where the closest retailer is, drop what you’re doing, and go right now. They’re some of the best dials being fake rolex day-date made today, and one this expansive and open is something I coulHand-over-hand, I made my way up thHand-over-hand, I made my way up the mooring line to 15 feet, where I paused for three minutes to decompress before continuing up past the buoy, which was, by then, rising and falling in the growing swell. I made my way up the boat ladder with my numb fingers and glanced at the Sinn. A fine layer of mist clouded the crystal, giving me a moment of panic. Had it leaked? No, its cold surface hitting the warmer air had merely caused condensation that wiped off. Job done.Similar to the above watch is Eric Clapton’s 3970 in white gold with a salmon dial, Breguet numerals, and a tachymeter scale. Obviously, this watch is significant for a few reasons: it’s Clapton’s; and it has a unique salmon dial with Breguet numerals. The most interesting thing about this watch is that it out-performed Clapton’s 5004 that sold in the same exact sale by $50,000, with the 3970 selling for $459,000 and the 5004 selling for $405,000. You can read more about this watch here.The Wing also marks a significant moment in the history of BrIt’s not all rosy, though. The brothers struggle to deny they’re irritated by the reluctance of their fellow Brits to support a return to industrialized watchmaking in the U.K. with manufacturing investment of their own, and are a glaring absentee from the alliance’s membership base.In many ways, such a partnership elevates the participating watch brand. Baltic, the once-scrappy, upstart – nay, Kickstart(er) – brand based in France has a partnership with Historic Racing by Peter Auto and recently announced the horological fruit of that partnership: A smartly designed throwback chronograph that nods to the past much like Peter Auto (responsible for, as the name suggests, races with historically significant cars).The interconnected histories of horology and motorsport is a tale as old as time – or is at least as old as motorsport itself, to be more accurate. In the age before the smartphone and pocket-sized digital devices became king, it was up to sophisticatedly designed tools like the humble and hardworking chronograph to be an accurate timekeeper in the world of racing and beyond.
The caseback shows the movement bridges, and there’s also a calendar covering a 100 year period. This shows when it will be necessary to use the manual correctors set into the case, to adjust the positions of Mars and the Moon; the disk is mechanically driven and makes one full rotation per century. Two additional disks are provided for a total of 300 years Réplicas Richard Mille rm 21 of correction information. The current year is highlighted in blue.For the Aqua Compressor, as with most watches, the no-date layout adds a welcome balance and, judging from the images, appears to work well with the oversized handset and bold marker designs selected by Farer, especially on the Hecla.Caliber: In-House Caliber 67A5Functions: Hours, minutes, month, day, date, moonphase, GMTDiameter: 27mmThickness: 6mmPower Reserve: 72 hoursWinding: AutomaticJewels: 28Additional Details: Has under-lug correctors for the calendar functionsI love the Smiley. It has played such a huge role in popular culture over the past five decades, from the original “Have A Nice Day” slogan pin right up to LSD, and Hacienda rave culture. Countless variations have also achieved cult status: Nirvana’s squiggly mouth and cross-eyed smiley, Justin Bieber’s present-day Drew House logo, apparel from brands like Kapital and Market, and our very beloved iPhone emojis.And in my opinion, If you want to wear your monogram Gucci tracksuit, your nail extensions, or your hoop earrings then perhaps the next step would be to refrain from making judgments on how others choose to decorate their watches. Yes, we can respect the craftsmanship and integrity of a watch but there is always another side to the argument: respecting remix culture, Black culture, and culture which has been adopted by every major luxury brand.Let’s get to the mechanics first. Designed as a unique piece by Alexia Stenou Parmigiani, the movement measures 112mm by 114mm with the automaton module and has only 17 jewels. It’s key-wound and key-set (be still my pocketwatch-loving heart) with an 8-day power reserve. The movement has all the finishing that you’d want, but it might be hard to see as it’s all housed inside a 2 kilogram base made of natural rock crystal and solid .925 silver with 10-micron rhodium plating.
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