On the other side, you have the DB2019v3 movement, which has a power reserve indicator on the reverse as well. Even the movement is bright blue, accented with the rose gold power reserve indicator and rose gold caseback. The blue and rose combo is especially nice here.Interestingly, the earliest use of “faux patina” I can find on the Timezone public forum, is in the post introducing the 2011 Reverso which William Massena mentions – “fauxtina” must have tani tag heuer zegarki been coined around the same time but so far, I’ve been unable to figure out who used it for the first time.The new Seiko Prospex “The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation” (SPB241, SPB243, and SPB245) represents a reinvention of the 1959 Alpinist – what many consider to be Seiko’s first sport watch. Taking design cues from the ’59 model, this new collection is markedly different from the “modern classic” Green Alpinist.There are certain watches that have left me with a lot of FOMO. It’s even worse when they’re more affordable – like the clamor for a Ming release when my budget is just not ready. The M.A.D.1 was one of the most hotly in-demand releases in 2022 – there were 19,000 legitimate entries into a raffle for only 1,500 watches. It’s no wonder – this is likely the only time the average watch lover would get a shot at a watch from the mind of Max Büsser and not have to pay close to six figures for it.Let’s get into it already. This week’s picks include a Tudor with (American) football provenance, a vintage Patek with some Gubelin-retailed extra sauce, and one of the most sought-after modern Pateks up for auction after being seized by the UK Police.
To put things in perspective a little, there is a yellow gold ref. 5100 also for sale at Christie’s on Monday and its estimate is just CHF 15,000-25,000. I would imagine the estimate on the white gold example was based on the result from 2014 and perceived interest today, but I will be very interested to see the final results on these two watches.The Seiko “tuna can” dive watch configuration is probably one of the most instantly recognizable in the business and is in its own way just as iconic as any Royal Oak or Submariner you care to name. The basic case design goes all the way back to the 1975 ref. 6159-7010, a 600 meter water resistant professional diver’s watch aimed straight at the professional saturation diver, and which was equipped with a high-beat, 36,000 vph movement as well as the world’s first titanium watch case.So where does the ProPilot X Calibre 400 fit into the picture? Somewhere right in the middle, in the sweet spot. It’s fashioned from tech-forward titanium that wears sandblasted and goedkope vacheron constantin horloge satinized finishes, but its minimalist dial design is reserved and stately, lending an air of simplistic elegance to the watch. It was only a matter of time before Oris rolled out the calibre 400 into new lines; so far, it’s appeared in the Aquis line, the Diver 65, and the Big Crown Pointer Date.Above, an extra-special treat that was shown to me by the man in charge of heritage at Chopard, Juan Garcia. It’s the original Chopard Mille Miglia watch from 1988. It’s a quartz-powered monopusher chronograph that is just 32mm across with a red-painted bezel and tritium markers. And here I thought I was leading the small watch charge with a 33.5mm Seiko …On the wrist, I would say this is the first timepiece I can remember in a long time that wears true to size. The dial (and absence of a prominent bezel) give this piece a lot of wrist presence. The lug-to-lug is fairly compact at 46.8mm, keeping those lugs fOn the wrist, I would say this is the first timepiece I can remember in a long time that wears true to size. The dial (and absence of a prominent bezel) give this piece a lot of wrist presence. The lug-to-lug is fairly compact at 46.8mm, keeping those lugs from hanging over smaller wrists. Nobody likes a hangover.And yes, I’m aware there were a few kinks in the movement that developed within its first few months – something to be expected of any just-released caliber, especially one with a brand-new architecture – but my understanding is that those have all been worked out. For referThe yellow gold version of the OFA is an extremely limited American-only LE of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the States. So many anniversaries! It shares the same thinness as the rose gold (2.23mm), 40mm case size, and notably brown lacquered dial. Both variations have a transparent caseback so you can watch that new escapement structure do its thingThe yellow gold version of the OFA is an extremely limited American-only LE of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the States. So many anniversaries! It shares the same thinness as the rose gold (2.23mm), 40mm case size, and notably brown lacquered dial. Both variations have a transparent caseback so you can watch that new escapement structure do its thing.
Briston is fairly freshly minted – the company got underway in 2012 and is the brainchilBriston is fairly freshly minted – the company got underway in 2012 and is the brainchild of Brice Jaunet, who is a Richemont Group alum, and former manager of Zenith in France. According to Jaunet, Briston’s aesthetic was inspired by elements of English style, including its tendency to occasionally veer into (hopefully appealing) quirkiness and eccentricity. Combine that with a pricing strategy designed to make the watches easy to own and wear, and you’ve got Briston.Making matters even more enticing is the correct rivet bracelet which its currently fitted with, complete with No. 57 endlinks. This is one detail that I’ve always found really adds to the overall appearance and completeness of a great vintage Rolex, and to have it fitted from purchase is always a nice touch. If you were wondering what the most tasteful Oyster Perpetual listed for sale online looks like, now you know.Brand: TAG HeuIn the run-up to its release, the watch will be on display at the Automobile Club de Monaco and available for pre-orders via the brand’s website and in select TAG Heuer boutiques before its launch this summer. The TAG Heuer Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition may not fill the three-day hole in the racing calendar this year, but it certainly helps.Reservoir Kanister, 41.5mm, grade 5 titanium case, black dial, self-winding mechanical movement, retrograde minutes, jumping hour, 37 hours power reserve, water-resistant 5ATM. Black leather strap with additional NATO strap, from $4,150When I briefly saw the watch in person last week, I was impressed by the finish of the ceramic case and enjoyed falsi gucci orologi how its white tone served as a frame for the colors applied to the movement bridges and hour markers. I also appreciate how Zenith adds color to the movement itself – treating the PVD application as part of the decorative process instead of separating the two completely.There’s so much talk of sustainability in watchmaking these days, a theme that seems particularly relevant to a brand like TAG Heuer that appeals to a young audience. Connected watches have built-in obsolescence. How do you account for that?
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