A Trio Of Grand Seiko Watches Executed In Three Different Ways

ForumA Trio Of Grand Seiko Watches Executed In Three Different Ways
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The President and Vice-President of the jury are both returning members: Aurel Bacs (of auction fame) and Gianfranco Ritschel (consultant and watchmaking trainer) though the non-voting commissioner role now belongs to Régis Hugenin-Dumittan, curator-director of the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), with legendary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin stepping aside.Available with a blue, black, or silver dial, the Spirit Chrono has red accents for the chronograph measure, 100-meters water resistance, and both the main crown and the date corrector crown (at 10) are of a screw-down type. Buyers get the choice of either a leather strap or a steel bracelet for the same price, and the Spirit Chronograph’s case has 22mm lugs.The Atmos Infinite is the Atmos reduced to the bare minimum in terms of components, but it’s also proof that simplicity doesn’t mean simplistic. The Infinite is sort of the clock equivalent of an openworked watch – you don’t have a lot of elements to work with, so everything has to be in its place and there’s no way of hiding the absence of lyxiga replikur a harmonious relationship of part to part if you’ve messed that up.If all of this is sounding mighty familiar to you right about now, it should. Everyone following along with Watches & Wonders this year walked away with a new Italian vocabulary word in their arsenal. The Italian word for “right,” destro, was the unexpected buzzword of the fair – if not for the entire year! – after Rolex released the southpaw-specific GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR.We both stood over the collection, captivated by what was possible 120 years ago – rattrapantes, extra-thin repeaters, 34mm ladies’ repeaters and chronographs, ornate gem-set pieces and Tiffany-signed watches. One of the most interesting was a rattrapante second foudroyante, a jumping seconds complication that nearly made your head spin but brought joy to Georges-Henri’s face. They were collected meticulously, first at auction, and eventually others came to Georges-Henri directly.By not using tritium (for the record, that’s something you only find on real vintage watches), the dial has been made cleaner by virtue of there being less text to deal with. We have an almost imperceptible Swiss on the six o’clock subdial and then up top we’re left with the classic Heuer wordmark and the Carrera name. Crispy and clean.
J.J. Redick isn’t your typical professional athlete, from a horological standpoint. And we noticed that very early on, when we we began following him on Instagram. J.J. has truly excellent taste, and an appreciation less of oversized, flashy pieces that dominate the wrists of the players in the league in which he plays, and more of traditional watchmaking in vintage sizes. For example, one of his favorite watches is the F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu.Price at launch will be about $2,300 and you can expect to see them become available this summer.The Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 1,000M: movement, Eco-Drive caliber J210; rated accuracy ±15 seconds per month. Case: halpa patek philippe kellot “Super Titanium” 1,000 meters water resistant, with helium escape valve. About 52.5mm x 21.4mm. Read about how deep humans can really dive here.Spec-wise, the watches are identical to the SPB143 and the SPB153. They’re powered by the 6R35, a caliber that’s broadly used across Seiko’s entire range and has settled in as a tried and true mid-tier movement. Both feature a stainless case, the SPB239 at 40.5mm and the SPB237 at 42.7mm (they’re both 13.2mm thick), with a water resistance rating of 200m. Everything you’d expect, like a screw-down crown and caseback, and a sapphire crystal, are present.And if all that’s not enough to count as horological subplot, Lashana Lynch’s character, Nomi – also known as 007 in the film – wears an Aqua Terra 150m, and Moneypenny wears a DeVille Prestige Quartz.His court attire was an oversized Hawaiian shirt, loafers, a ponytail, and a ’90s Breitling Chronomat ref B13050.1. He wore the watch on a brown leather strap, cinched tightly to his wrist. My first watch was a Swatch from a department store at the mall called The Broadway. I had a black one, a clear one, and one in neon pink. They were fun and fashionable and it was the ’80s, the vibrant colors paired with the skateboarder look that was the style back then.And then we have the Cartier Libre, where we can do whatever we want – for small numbers again. Some are just exploration. There was even a glove in gold and mesh. We just said: “Let’s try that,” and to our surprise found a customer. We have done something in the same spirit with a kind of gold cape, like a coat of arms, in gold mesh with some zippers and diamond.
For a visual trip through time with a watch that despite its being nicknamed the Moonwatch, was a heck fake audemars piguet watch of a lot more than that, check out this look at Speedmasters being used for EVA (spacewalks) through the decades. Come for the story, but stay for the comments from a gent at Johnson Space Center who was kind enough to share some of the current (in 2015) practices regarding the Speedmaster, as well as the X-33.Coming to the Vintage Watches page of the HODINKEE Shop fresh to the market, never publicly offered before, this 1981 Explorer passes with flying colors in terms of everything we look for on a Tiffany-stamped Rolex. Given the lack of Rolex papers indicating Tiffany & Co., we have to dive deep into the fonts and printing quality of the actual retailer stamp.Caliber: L791.4 (ETA base)Functions: Time; flyback chronograph with 30-minute totalizerDiameter: 30mmPower Reserve: 68 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 beats per hourJewels: 28Chronometer Certified: YesAdditional Details: Column wheel chronographWe take a lot of meetings and handle a lot of watches in a year. Most don’t result in stories just because of how quickly the industry moves. That’s unfortunate, especially in the case of Naoya Hida, who provided one of the most thoughtful and infectious short meetings I took when he was in New York earlier this year, showing his new Type 4A and Type 4A-1 watches.Historically speaking, this is quite a remarkable watch. When it was released it looked, as you might expect considering this is a revival model, quite like the watch we see today. It had striking orange features, the signature angular Defy case design, a 4:30 crown, and a staggering 600m of water resistance (which, for my math friends, is 1,969 feet).Of the four main events I attended, this bright and clear Saturday at Laguna Seca is the peak for me. The entire infield is largely open to attendees, and you can walk past the make-shift pits to see the cars being prepped, get a hotdog and watch the cars slide around turn 3, or climb the hill to watch the cars slither through “The Corkscrew,” Laguna Seca’s legendary turn 8 corner that is almost impossibly steep and difficult to judge for newcomers to the track.

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